Lake Como with Kids: Villas, Ferries & Family Guide | Europe Moms

Lake Como: Italy's Most Beautiful Lake

Lake Como has been enchanting visitors for literally thousands of years - Roman aristocrats built villas here, 19th-century poets rhapsodized about the views, and George Clooney bought a house on its shores (which, honestly, tells you everything you need to know about the location's appeal). But here's what the guidebooks don't always mention: Lake Como is also a wonderful destination for families. The combination of sparkling water, mountain backdrop, charming villages, and Italian warmth creates a relaxed, magical environment where kids thrive and parents can actually unwind.

We visited Lake Como as part of a longer Italy trip, spending four nights in a rented apartment in Varenna, and it was the highlight of the entire trip. After the intensity of Milan and Florence, arriving at Lake Como felt like someone turned down the volume on the world. The pace is slower, the scenery is healing, and there's a simplicity to the days - swim, eat, explore a village, eat again, watch the sunset over the mountains - that's exactly what families need in the middle of a European vacation.

The lake is deep and gets cold quickly below the surface, so younger kids who are water-shy might want a swim vest for confidence. Our six-year-old wore one for the first two days until she got comfortable with the lake water, and it made a huge difference in how much she enjoyed the swimming.

Choosing Where to Stay

Lake Como is shaped like an inverted Y, and the most scenic and popular area is where the two branches meet - the triangle formed by Bellagio, Varenna, and Menaggio. Any of these three towns makes an excellent family base, and they're all connected by frequent ferry service.

Varenna is our top recommendation for families. It's small, picturesque, affordable compared to Bellagio, and has a genuine village feel - the kind of place where the baker knows your name by day three. The lakefront promenade (Passeggiata degli Innamorati, or "Lovers' Walk") is stunning, the two villa gardens are beautiful, and there are several small pebbly beaches where kids can swim. The village is car-free in the center, which is heavenly when you have small children.

Bellagio is the most famous Lake Como town and undeniably gorgeous - often called "the pearl of the lake." It's also the most expensive and the most crowded. If you stay here, book accommodation with lake views (the whole point) and arrive early in the day to enjoy the town before the day-tripper crowds descend. The gardens of Villa Melzi are beautiful and less crowded than the ones in Varenna.

Getting Around the Lake

The ferry system is the primary way to get around Lake Como, and it's part of the experience. Navigazione Laghi operates regular ferries, fast hydrofoils, and car ferries connecting all the major towns. Buy tickets at the lakefront kiosks or on board. Kids love the boat rides - the views of the villas, mountains, and villages from the water are spectacular, and there's something deeply satisfying about island-hopping by ferry with the wind in your hair.

We bought a day pass that allowed unlimited travel on the central lake ferries and used it to visit Bellagio, Menaggio, and the Villa Balbianello in a single day. The ferry timetables are posted at each stop and available online - study them the night before to plan your day, as some routes have gaps during the midday hours.

A lightweight travel stroller is useful for the flat waterfront areas but less so in the steep, stepped village streets. Most Lake Como villages are built on hillsides, and the streets are a mix of flat promenades and steep staircases. A baby carrier works better for the smallest travelers. The good news is that the villages are compact - you're never walking very far.

Villas and Gardens

The grand lakeside villas are Lake Como's signature attraction, and several are open to the public with spectacular gardens that kids actually enjoy. Villa Carlotta, between Menaggio and Bellagio, is our favorite for families - the gardens are extensive, with a botanical collection that includes giant sequoias and tropical plants, plus statuary and fountains that kids find fascinating. The interior has art and period rooms. Allow two hours to explore properly.

Villa Balbianello, perched on a wooded promontory near Lenno, is possibly the most photogenic spot on the entire lake. You might recognize it from Star Wars (the Naboo lake retreat scenes) and the James Bond film Casino Royale. Reach it by boat from Lenno or by a pleasant 20-minute walk through olive groves. The gardens are manicured and intimate, with views that will ruin you for every other lake view you'll ever see.

In Varenna, the Villa Monastero gardens stretch along the lakeshore with a beautiful mix of formal plantings and semi-tropical specimens, while the nearby Villa Cipressi has a lovely terraced garden descending to the water. Both are modest in size and perfect for families - you can see them without exhausting young attention spans.

Swimming, Beaches, and Water Activities

Lake Como's water is clean, deep, and refreshingly cool - perfect for swimming on warm days. Most towns have small public beaches or swimming areas along the waterfront. In Varenna, the pebbly beach near the ferry dock is popular with families, and there's a small sand beach at Riva Bianca on the village's south end. Bellagio has the Lido di Bellagio, a public pool and beach area with sun loungers and a snack bar.

For a special experience, rent a small motorboat and explore the lake on your own. Several rental companies in Varenna, Bellagio, and Menaggio rent boats without requiring a license (for boats under a certain horsepower). We rented a small boat for a half day and it was absolutely magical - cruising along the shoreline, stopping to swim in secluded coves, pulling up to waterfront restaurants for lunch. Our kids talk about that boat day constantly.

Apply good sunscreen liberally - the combination of lake reflection and mountain sun means you'll burn faster than you expect. The water is cleanest and warmest in July and August, but June and September offer comfortable swimming temperatures with fewer crowds. Morning is usually the calmest time on the lake, with mirror-like water perfect for photos.

Where to Eat with Kids

Eating at Lake Como is Italian dining at its most relaxed and scenic. Many restaurants have lakefront terraces where you can watch the ferries go by and the sun set behind the mountains while eating some of the freshest food in Italy. The lake fish - particularly missoltini (sun-dried shad) and lavarello (whitefish) - are local specialties worth trying, though kids might prefer the universally excellent pasta and pizza.

In Varenna, Il Molo has a lakefront terrace and serves wonderful fresh fish and pasta. Nilus Bar, right on the water, is perfect for casual lunches and aperitifs while kids run on the promenade. In Bellagio, the restaurants along the waterfront are more expensive but have beautiful settings - Bilacus does excellent traditional Lombardy cooking at relatively reasonable prices for Bellagio.

For the best value, eat lunch at a pizzeria or alimentari (deli) where you can get fresh sandwiches, and save the lakefront restaurants for dinner when the sunset light transforms every meal into a special occasion. The gelato at Varenna's gelateria on the main square is excellent, and our kids developed a daily gelato ritual that became a non-negotiable part of each afternoon.

Day Trips and Practical Tips

Milan is only an hour by train from Varenna, making it an easy day trip. The Duomo cathedral is spectacular (kids are impressed by the rooftop walk among the spires), and the Navigli canal district is fun for a walk and lunch. Como town, at the lake's southern tip, has a pleasant waterfront, a funicular up to Brunate village with panoramic views, and a cathedral. The funicular ride alone is worth the trip for kids.

The best time to visit Lake Como with families is June through September, with July and August being the warmest and most crowded. We loved mid-June - the weather was beautiful, the gardens were in full bloom, and the crowds were manageable. Shoulder season (April-May, October) is cooler and some seasonal businesses may be closed, but the lake is serene and the fall colors are stunning.

Getting to Lake Como is straightforward: trains from Milan Centrale reach Varenna in about an hour, with direct service along the scenic eastern shore. From Varenna, ferries connect to everywhere else on the lake. We found that four nights was the perfect amount of time - enough to truly relax into the Lake Como rhythm, visit several villages, take a boat day, and hike one of the many mountain trails that start from the lakeside towns. This is the Italy that people dream about: slow, beautiful, warm, and absolutely unforgettable for families. Comfortable walking shoes are essential - European cities are best explored on foot. Bring a reusable water bottle for everyone - staying hydrated makes a huge difference with kids. Pack a compact first aid kit - cobblestone blisters are real. A waterproof phone case lets you take photos worry-free.

European Travel Essentials

Here are our tried-and-tested picks for this trip: